While the temples at Mahabalipuram were a sight to behold, we were astonished upon heading inland to the ancient realm of Kumbakonam.
This fascinating part of Tamil Nadu by the Kollidam River has a long history and boasts numerous beautifully preserved and still functioning ancient Hindu temples.
In fact, they call it The Place of 5,000 Temples. Many are of extraordinary size, complexity, and beauty; and it’s not surprising several are UNESCO World Heritage listed.
Yet even more surprising is how little is known about them outside of India. We decided to check out a few of the best one.
There was minor dissention in the chariot about which temples we should see, but despite our driver Murugan’s fishy wrangling we worked out an interesting itinerary.
Our first stop was the splendid Brihadisvara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram.
This city here was founded by the Chola king Rajendra I to commemorate his victory over the Pala Dynasty, and became the capital of Chola Empire in 1025, remaining so for 250 years.
The Cholas were nothing if they weren’t great builders. The surviving granite Shiva temple, completed in 1035 CE is still in use today.
The vimana tower above the shrine is one of the tallest in South India, and the compound features a massive colonnaded prakara (corridor) and one of India’s largest Shiva Lingas, which are the mysterious stones found in Hindu temples representing an abstract incarnation of deity.
This temple shares the same design and name as the older Brihadeeswarar Temple of Thanjavur, but smaller and more refined. Both are excellent examples of the period Dravidian style and are the largest Shiva temples in southern India.
The complex is also famed for its bronze sculptures, artwork on its walls, Shiva’s sacred bull Nandi, the scale of its primary tower and its numerous inscriptions.
We strolled around the immaculate grounds a couple of times, marvelling at the intricacy of the facades, statues, and bas reliefs. The temple area was remarkably free of tourists, and we appeared to be the only foreign visitors.
Jacqui was briefly baled up by a Chewbacca-like guru who seemed to appear out of thin air, but a small stipend sent him on his way to the next incarnation of largesse.
Then it was on to Veppathur, Kumbakonam, and our accommodation at Mantra Koodam, a comfortable CGH Earth property set amid tranquil gardens. (For the record, no freebies here, we paid our own way and can report that this Indian hotel chain is terrific.)
The property is designed like an ‘agraharam’ – the characteristically Brahmin street lined with ‘illams’ (homes).
The cottages are designed like traditional Tamil homes – with large verandahs, Athangudi tiles on the floor, ornate Burmese teak doors and open-air bathrooms.
Strolling through the property, you come across lush coconut groves, temple shrines, ornate water features and the occasional peacock strutting about.
We dined in the main complex that night and explored more of the grounds the following morning.
Due to its important historic sites, the area attracts Indians from throughout the country. We chatted with one family group who had travelled in a three-vehicle convoy all the way from New Delhi.
Clearly well-to-do, they had an entire van with driver for their luggage alone. They seemed to be in different traditional costumes whenever we spotted them promenading the leafy property.
Murugan swung by the next morn, and we set off for the nearby Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram.
Another Chola temple, built in the 12th Century by Rajaraja II, the sprawling complex features wonderful intricate carvings, elaborate columned spaces, pyramid temple and tranquil walled courtyards.
On each temple visit you are reminded of the brilliant achievements of the Chola in architecture, sculpture, painting, and bronze casting.
They were truly among the world’s greatest medieval civilisations and deserve more recognition in the West.
As we wandered about, a ‘holy man’ appeared from an upper portal in the main tower and attempted to lure me into the inner sanctum for ‘purification and enlightenment’, but once bitten by a temple charlatan, twice shy. I bolted, calling back over my shoulder that my interest was purely architectural, and I had to talk to a man about a donkey.
Throughout our southern Indian sojourn, locals would approach us, wanting to know from whence we came, and many would ask to be photographed with us.
One friendly young woman, celebrating her birthday in the Airavatesvara grounds, insisted we join her for cake. We nibbled a few crumbs but, ever conscious of the oft dubious subcontinent dairy products, discreetly flicked the rest to a tag-along mangy hound, which visibly needed it more than us.
Directly adjacent to the temple is a fascinating example of local cottage industry. Darasuram has been a renowned centre for silk weaving for centuries, producing some of the India’s most beautiful and sought-after saris.
Murugan, at this point seeking to improve steadily deteriorating client/driver relations, said it was a must-see part of the local culture, and this time, we were glad to have heeded him.
He took us into the home of a family who have been making silk saris and scarfs for generations.
Their small cottage was a hive of activity, with the matriarch working the living room loom and daughters arranging the raw silk bundles, packaging finished items and taking care of sales.
It was a rare and special experience and a great reminder that small traditional industries remain a major part of the Indian way of life and economy.
Of course, we couldn’t leave without snapping up a couple of colourful scarves.
Then onwards to yet another magnificent Chola temple, the 11th century Brihadishwara Temple at Thanjavur, another UNESCO World Heritage site.
One of the most popular attractions in Tamil Nadu, it’s always busy with the Hindu devout and Indian tourists. Yet, once again, very few foreigners.
Finished in 1010, it is thought to be the first complete granite temple in the world. Some 60,000 tons of the heavy, dense stone was used in the complex.
How this was fashioned into such beautiful, decorative facades was astonishing, considering the limited tools they had at the time.
At a height of more than 60 metres, the main shrine of the temple is the highest pyramidal shrine tower in south India.
Legend says its domed cupola—which weighs more than 80 tons—was transported to the structure’s apex via a gently sloping ramp that was 6.5 km long.
Its soaring pyramidal shrine, heavy doorways, and early paintings make it masterpiece of Chola art and architecture.
Entering the complex, we had to remove our shoes, as is Hindu custom, but as hundreds were lining up to put their shoes into the official storage room, we hid ours behind a small wall and went to explore.
Mistake. Returning, all said footwear had vanished. After a frantic search, we noted an elderly functionary beckoning us forward, with raised eyebrow. He had rescued our shoes from certain theft and for a small fee, was prepared to hand them over.
Inexplicably bonding with this opportunistic gent, Jacqui accepted his offer of a chair – though soon found herself replacing him as the “take off your shoes” enforcer at the temple gate, waving his stick to all who walked past, much to the bemusement of temple-goers (we were the only westerners there that day).
Moral: When in Thanjavur, do as the Thanjavurians do, and check your shoes in.
Back in the car at last, we headed south toward the renowned Chettinad region.
We were now very much in rural terrain, heading through sugar cane, maize, tamarind trees, eucalypts, and people selling cashews from roadside stalls.
Along the way we passed numerous Hindu pilgrims walking barefoot in robes to temples hundreds of kilometres distant.
It had been a fascinating couple of days in the ancient Chola lands, but Chettinad was soon to be a new Indian revelation.
More of that next time..
